RED MITE
Things you maybe didn't but should know about them!!

	RED MITE     (Dermanyssus Gallinae) <Underside & Dorsal > Views
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• Red Mite is an obligatory blood-feeding ecto-parasite

  • ("ecto" means it attacks or feeds on the outside of the bird

  • as opposed to worms (endo-parasite) that feed on the inside.
    
    

• It attacks resting birds, mainly during the night for a short (1 - 2 hours) blood meal.
  

• After feeding, the mites hide in cracks and crevices away from daylight.

  • Here they mate and lay their eggs.
    
    

• Red mites are very small

• just visible without magnification

  • and may appear like moving specs of dirt

  • The eggs are microscopically small (400 x 270u) oval and pearly white.
    
    

• Red mites are not species specific and will "attack" any species or breed of bird. 
  

• They do not fly nor are they usually transmitted via clothing

  • although if there is a bad infestation, mites have been known to "jump" onto a person's clothing
    and therefore could be transported this way to another location/Aviary etc.

  • Remember they are only usually out of their hidey-holes towards dusk/dark and would be unusual
    for them to be active during daylight hours.

   

• they are extremely mobile considering their microscopic size 

• and can travel great distances relative to their size!

• They can be transferred from bird to bird 

• or from wild birds landing on your Aviaries, 

  • esp if there is an open area of roof. 
    
    

• Adults - are red when engorged with blood

  • otherwise black, grey or white

  • females about 1 mm long

  • mouthparts :  slender and whip like. 
    
                               

• Life cycle (stages)

  • Female mites deposit eggs (after a blood meal) in crevices,

  • under boards, at the ends of perches where they butt up to the back of the cage

  • or in debris near roosts
    
    

• Under warm conditions the eggs can transform into :

  • Six-legged larvae within 2 -3 days

  • These 6-legged larvae do not feed  

  • Within 24 hours the larvae moult into 8-legged protonymphs - which do feed  

  • Protonymphs start to feed on roosting birds

  • They then moult into deutonymphs

  • which continue feeding

  • before becoming an Adult Male or Female Red-Mite
    
    

• Deutonymphs

  • take a blood meal then moult into adults

  • Under favourable conditions the life cycle  (egg-to-egg)

  • can be completed in 7 days (frightening!!)
    
    

• Adults have lived up to 5+ months without a Blood Meal

  • So, they can live off their host (the bird)

  • without a Blood Feed - for up to 5+ months and still survive!

  • They are nearly white when unfed

  • but are bright red, when recently fed

  • They are grey to black with a partially digested blood meal inside them.
    
    

Site of infestation

• Skin of the host, but most of the life cycle is spent in hiding places 

• in the nest, Aviary, cage, perch-end or roost crevices.
  
  

Pathogenesis/clinical signs

• If the levels of infestation are high, the mite can cause increased stress to the birds - including :

• Anaemia, due to blood loss

• Severe skin irritation

• Blood loss can cause increased susceptibility to disease

  • Esp. if the bird's living conditions aren't the most sanitary!

• or may be severe enough to cause death

• Clinical signs include restlessness, 

• scratching, usually around the head with the foot

• or rubbing the head and face on perches (more often than usual)

• The mites can occasionally bite mammals, inc. humans,

  • causing painful skin irritation

  • often on the inside of the human forearm
    
    

Diagnosis

• A large infestation will causes anemia amongst small birds.

• they can be especially dangerous to small chicks in the nest.

• Mites may be difficult to find on the bird during daylight hours.
  
  

• Look for mites in their hiding places during the day with a magnifying glass,

  • mainly confined to dark hiding spaces. 
    
    

• If you suspect you have Red-mite, hang a piece of white cloth/white sheet over the front of your cage
  and in the morning you will find blood-red mites (as they will have just fed)

  • they seem attracted to the white cloth.
    
    
    

• Check for tiny black spots - the mite's droppings

  • these are also indicative of infestation.
    
    

Control measures

• An ideal alternative to wood, is to construct Aviaries/cages for birds 

  • out of Plastic &/or metal

  • Plastic "Quicko" cages and metal (aluminum-panelled) Aviaries

  • thus eliminating crevices (hiding places) as much as possible.

   

   

• Seal as many joints & crevices of your Cages, Aviaries, Nestboxes & Feeders as possible

• Use "Painters' Mate" mastic (that sets hard) or similar (you can get it in brown)

• Red mites are able to survive rigorous cleaning and disinfections programmes

• Heat guns have been used to some effect on the joints and crevices of wood-work.

• Steam cleaners (no birds in the Aviary at the time!)

• Synthetic Pyrethroid (Cypermethrin)

• Pyrethroid (alphacypermethrin)

• Permethrin and Piperonly Butoxide 

  • Permethrin is also used in healthcare, to eradicate parasites such as head lice and scabies,
    and in industrial and domestic settings to control pests such as ants and termites.

• Silica-based products

• Citrus extracts

• FLYCAM W   (Recommended by DEFRA for Poultry Farmers to eradicate Red Mite from their Flocks 
   - apparently very effective - comes in powder Form and can be diluted to spray).
  
  

• IVERMECTIN "spot-on" is one of the most effective preventative and eradicating measures you can take.

  • It works in a similar way to "Frontline" which you can buy to put on your dogs and cats to worm
    them and kill off fleas etc.
     

  • Ivermectin works systemically i.e. it is absorbed thru the skin or feather shaft into the birds body.

  • So, it follows that it also will be absorbed into your body thru your skin if you get it on you.

    • You MUST WEAR rubber GLOVES before you catch up your bird to administer it

    • It can make you feel ill and you know you have absorbed it becos you get a strange bitter
      aste in your mouth!

  • Catch up your bird and blow the feathers apart at the back of it's neck where it can't get it's beak
    to preen.

  • Put one or 2 drops (check directions first so you do not overdose) on the back of the birds neck,
    as near to the skin as poss.  

  • Give it a few seconds to start to absorb b4 letting the bird go.
    
    

• IVERMECTIN controls and helps to kill both internal (worms) and external (mites and lice etc.) parasites.

• You can get "Panomec" from your Vets

• Some Pharmaceutical firms are now supplying a 1% solution which can be sold over the counter.

  • You can buy it over the internet or from certain Pet shops and at Bird Sales. 
    
    
    

• Duramitex - is a solution you can use 

  • - You dilute with water and sprayed into all the crevices and hiding places.

  • You can use 1 litre plant spray 

  • or empty and rinse thoroughly a kitchen cleaning spray bottle and fill with the mix.

  • Remember it's better to try and spray towards dusk/dark 

  • to try and get the Red Mite as they emerge from their hiding places
    
    

  • Remove your birds FIRST BEFORE SPRAYING!

  • You can buy this product from Pet stores or Bird Shows.

  • Wear a protective mask over your nose and mouth when spraying.

  • It can't be healthy breathing it in!

  • Also, rubber gloves

  • It's very strong smelling, so don't take any risks
    
    

• Feeding your bird Garlic (helps deter mites)

  • It works by exuding a strong garlic smell thru the birds skin, 

  • which the mites and other biting insects don't seem to like

  • (your can buy pure Garlic powder or granules from Agricultural merchants or Saddlers)

  • Add it to a soft food such as Egg Food &/or sweetcorn 
    
    

• Eucalyptus leaves/branches in the Aviary is supposed to help to deter Red-Mites
  
  

• It has been rumoured that having Zebra Finches in the Aviary seems to have help get rid of them
   

  • One theory is that they eat them

  • The other theory is that when the Red-mite suck the Zebra's blood it is toxic to them and kills them

  • Not sure which, if any is true - but worth trying  

  • - if you have a small-bird Aviary where the Zebra Finch would fit in with the other birds.

  • Just remember tho. if you are breeding in an Aviary, Zebras are noted for building a nest on top
    (i.e. inside) of any other birds nest, 

  • on top of eggs too, if there are any in there.
    
    

Directions for use - Red Mite Concentrate or any Anti-mite spray preparation :

• Red mite is a nocturnal creature so it’s best to spray the birds at night.

• Check the preparation you are using is safe to use on birds or NEAR to birds 

  • BEFORE YOU SPRAY with your birds in their Aviary.
    
    

• Dim the lights as low as practically possible to avoid any undue agitation amongst the birds.

• Don’t forget that red mite can live away from the bird for up to 36 weeks.

"GRANDAD'S" Tried & Tested Red-Mite deterrents

• Paint Paraffin into the cracks and crevices with a small paintbrush

• Mix Paraffin with Vaseline and smear in Cracks and crevices + Nest pan bases

  • Vaseline smothers the mites - as in scaly-face and scaly-leg
    
    

• Use Carbolic Soap in the same way you would use the Paraffin & Vaseline

• Double-sided sticky tape over cracks and crevices

• Coca Cola  - the coke sticks to them and the Acid in the coke breaks down the Red Mite's outer shell,
  killing them.

  • A very sticky, but apparently effective treatment!
    
    

• and what drives those annoying bugs away? 
• Well, read on . . .  
• One of the most common substances used in insect spray is called Permethrin is often used on clothing,
  tents etc. 
  
• There are also several natural insecticides 
  • like citronella, oils of cedarwood, lemongrass, peppermint, eucalyptus, soya bean oil, garlic
    and many more.
    
    
• Blood sucking insects are attracted to many chemical and physical factors, including carbon dioxide,
  body heat, chemicals in sweat, and on the surface of skin
  
  
• Insect bites can be annoying for the itching they cause but they can also be harmful by transmitting
  certain diseases to humans and birds.

• Permethrin is a powerful, rapidly acting insecticide
  
  
  • similar in structure to natural Pyrethrum insecticide, which is the natural active ingredient in many flea repellants for dogs, cats as well as birds.
  • The natural Pyrethrum is safe to use on and around your birds.
  • It is derived from the crushed and dried flowers of the Daisy Chrysanthemum (cinerariifolium). 
  • Permethrin is a human-made synthetic pyrethroid. 
  • It works as a "contact insecticide" 
  • causing nervous system toxicity to the insect after it inhales it
  • this leads to the death or "knockdown" (out of the air) of the insect. 
  • The chemical is effective against mosquitoes, flies, ticks, and mites.
  • Permethrin has low toxicity in mammals,&  is poorly absorbed by the skin
    
    
• Permethrin should be applied directly to clothing or other fabrics such as tent walls or mosquito nets,
  not to skin. 
• It remains active for quite some time as a deterrent, if applied to surfaces.

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